2002 mazda protege car battery at costco

#2002 mazda protege car battery at costco full

It would seem problem is alternator, but alternator guy thought it may be ok. Newly installed belt, which was already showing signs of wear/burnt, would slip on alternator upon acceleration, causing 5 amp output to drop back to 0. On my car, we verified no output, then tightened belt and got 5 amp output, but not what should be. Anyway, he said they went through several belts, and found that the belt needed tightened beyond expected tension and that fixed problem. Took it to an alternator shop, and the mechanic told me that he has had problems with the alternator belts on the (2.2?) liter engine. Within a couple weeks the battery has gone dead, replaced same, and new battery also drained. I then changed it again myself, and checked to make sure the slternator and water pump pulley turned freely and the belt was adequately tight. The replaced alternator belt lasted a couple weeks and broke. Although the other belt was fine, the alternator belt was really bad. The first was put on by a cert mechanic when installing a timing belt. Having trouble with alternator belts burning/braking. I recently bought(few months)a 95 Mazda Protege, 1.5 liter engine with about 105,000 miles. Hoping to keep the car for at least for another year (~12,000 miles), so, hopefully this investment will be worth it.? but my 00 Protege has only 54k and this is already my second set of new pads ? I realize that I will now brake pads etc. I said go ahead and do it but it bothers me that I was given different explanations at different times and now I'll end up spending altogether almost $700 to have this problem fixed. Now the dealership says it is going to cost me another $250 to have a new left caliper installed on my Mazda. So this weekend's diagnostic is a bad left caliper which was closing on itself intermittently.

#2002 mazda protege car battery at costco full

Then last week, the same noise started one more time - this time even worse! - at lower speeds just before coming to a full stop the steering starts vibrating/shaking and you hear (and feel) this clicking and clunking from from front left side while braking. took my '00 ES back to the dealership last weekend - they said there was loose clamp on the left brake - so they fixed it for free. In your case, a 2-amp draw while the car is off is a fairly deep draw, so the Yellow Top may be a good choice.After the clicking and clunking was fixed (sway bar links + brake pads = $400 !) in mid-August the same kind of clicking/clunking started again two weeks ago. That is about the same as replacing a group 24 with a group 31.Īgain, while a Yellow top of equal size can last more than a few years, it will almost never last as long as a much cheaper non-deep cycle battery IF you are not draining the non-deep cycle battery down more than 10% or so on a regular basis. To accomplish this, a deep cycle battery uses thicker plates.Īs a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery also as a starting battery, it should be oversized about 20% compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size to get the same cranking amps. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged over and over again (something that would ruin a car battery very quickly). A deep cycle battery can provide a surge when needed, but nothing like the surge a car battery can. A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. 'Deep Cycle' batteries, like marine batteries are made to be discharged 80%without sustaining damage.